
Move over, tequila. Mezcal is taking over as the dominant distilled spirit in chic Mexico City these days.
At least, that is what I’m starting to believe after learning that a third location of the adorable and chic mini-chain La Botica opened up this past March in the Zona Rosa, joining the two previous locations in the Roma and the Condesa.
Unlike tequila, which is made only from blue agave grown in the states of Jalisco or Guanajuato, mezcal is predominantly produced in Oaxaca. Like tequila, it can be classified as añejo (which has been aged for at least a year and has a dark caramel color), reposado (which has “rested” between two months and a year), and blanco (which has a clear color and has been aging for less than two months). Each style has its own flavor and finish.
La Botica, often referred to simply as “La Mezcaleria” could be considered a mezcal boutique, offering a nice variety of high quality mezcals made in Oaxaca. The maguey has a nice golden color and a rich, almost smokey flavor, the papolote is clear with a sharp, almost grassy finish, and there are over a dozen other selections to chose from. Additionally, they serve several different cremas, in flavors such as cafe, mango, or coco (my favorite), and sweet, flavored licores. (As a fan of marzipan, I recommend the almendra flavor.)
The decor at La Mezcaleria is a chic mix of modern and retro details: small cafe tables and chairs sit on a floor made of paving stones and all the signs and menus are written by hand. A glass display case filled with miniature toys doubles as the bar. The bottles of mezcales, cremas, and licores themselves add to the ambiance of the bar, displayed elegantly in small bottles on rows of shelves behind the bar. The lighting is warm enough to reveal the variations in color between the different bottles, but dim enough to give the place a romantic, almost speakeasy atmosphere.
The location in the Roma is very small, with only four or five tables inside and a few spilling out onto the sidewalk. There is little street traffic, especially as it gets closer to midnight, and several times I’ve had to walk a few blocks to catch a cab. (The original location is in the Condesa on a much more crowded strip. )
In March of this year a new location opened up in the Zona Rosa. This space is considerably larger, which, combined with the neighborhood, makes it a much nosier and livelier scene, especially on the weekends, when the mixed gay/straight patrons are starting to crowd in. As in the Roma, the crowd is mainly in their twenties and thirties, though I don’t think younger or older patrons would feel out of place.
The waiters at both the Roma and Zona Rosa locations have always been friendly and helpful and have never even batted an eye when faced with a loud group of tipsy machas.
Prices for a caballito (small, thin shot glass) run between 25 and 41 pesos. (Larger bottles are also available for purchase: they make smart gifts for the non-AA set.) My only warning for beginners is to not get carried away; the drinks are smooth buy very strong. Sip it, don’t shoot it, and if you go with a group, I suggest taking sips from each others’ glasses to appreciate the many delicious options available to you. Small bottles of Corona and Victoria for 15 pesos make good chasers between rounds, and there are large tin cups of habas con chile for those in need of something solid in their stomach.
La Botica, Colonia Roma; Orizaba (on the corner of Quéretero)La Botica, Zona Rosa; Amberes, (next to Lipstick), Zona Rosa
La Botica, Condesa (unreviewed here); 396 Campeche, Condesa
UPDATE: BOTH THE COLONIA ROMA AND ZONA ROSA LOCATIONS OF LA MEZCALERÍA HAVE BEEN CLOSED. THE CONDESA LOCATION REMAINS OPEN.