Xochimilco: a macha’s day out

The Xochimilco canals are hardly an undiscovered secret in Mexico City; they are described in all the handbooks as a worthwhile destination for tourists and chilangos alike. Rightfully so. The afternoon I spent there for a friend’s birthday was one of the nicest I’ve ever had in Mexico City.

Lake Xochimilco was the breadbasket of Tenochtitlan. The canals that exist today were formed by chinampería, a method of farming developed by the Xochimilcas during the 12th through 14th centuries. Chinampas, often called “floating gardens”, were a way around the challenges faced by farmers in the Valley of Mexico (such as poor soil, irregular rainfall, and occasional frosts) because they allowed farming to take place literally on top of the lake. Created by staking off shallow areas of Lake Xochimilco and enclosing these areas with reeds or canes, these areas were then filled up with mud, silt, and dead plants until the chinampa rose about a meter out of the water. Because of the flow of water around the chinampas, the crops were easily irrigated and maintained.

Although there is still farming taking place in Xochimilco, the main draw is the canals, where you can rent a trajinera (boat) to take you on a slow, floating tour of what is left of the canal system. The trajineras are colorfully painted, covered boats, propelled by a boatsman pushing a stick against the floor of the canals. Each trajinera is named after a woman. They range in size to accomodate whatever group you bring, from a couple of people up to a group of 20. Rates are supposedly uniform, but be sure to set a price before you leave the embarcadero, and remember to tip the boatsman for good service.

I had read about Xochimilco in the guidebooks for about a year before I finally made the trip. I went with a group of gays and lesbians in order to celebrate my friend’s birthday. I have to admit, I don’t know if it would have been as much fun if I wasn’t in such good company. For our large group we got the largest size trajinera, for approximately 200 pesos per hour. Split between a bunch of people, it was well worth the cost.

Our boatsman made a special point of selling us a bucket of beer on ice before we left the embarcadero, and we bought, not knowing that anything we needed would be available to us on the water as well (for a slightly higher price). Indeed, we had not pushed off more than five minutes earlier when a girl making massive micheladas in paper cups paddled up to our boat and latched onto the side of it so her hands were free to play bartender. She was only the beginning: souvenirs, esquites, beer, botanas, dulces, flowers, tacos–all of them were available for purchase, sold by floating vendors that aggressively paddled after boats full of potential customers.

Micheladas on the go:

Manzanas acarameladas:

In addition to being able to purchase food, drinks, and recuerdos, there are also many floating bands available for hire, the most popular styles being mariachi and marimba. The boats carrying the musicians (including their large percussion instruments) can attach to your boat and provide you with music for your floating party. Rates are per song.

This video gives the viewer a sense of the pace of the Xochimilco canals. Please note the marimba band floating by on another boat.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_mVkyB7sIM]

The longer you spend on a trajinera, the further away from the touristy areas you can get. It is possible to tour the parts of Xochimilco where people live, where farming is still going on, and where there is more wildlife. To get deep into the remote sections of the canals, expect to lease the boat for at least three hours (accounting for the return trip to the embarcadero). On that note, please be aware that although the boats do not have bathrooms on them, there are several locations along the way where, for a few pesos, you can use the bathroom. (Note: some do not have soap or running water.)

If you are nervous about being affectionate with a girlfriend or otherwise being visibly “out” in front of the boatsman, I recommend, if your Spanish allows, simply being upfront about your needs as you negociate a price. There are many boatsmen competing for your business, and there are certainly those who will have no problem taking gays and lesbians on their boats.

The two main launches, Embarcadero Caltonga and Embarcadero Nativitas, are both a short walk from the center of the town of Xochimilco, which is nice to explore, and boasts a large and beautiful 16th century church, Parroquia de San Bernardino de Siena. I recommend going by taxi (to save time and energy), but for those who prefer public transportation, you can get to Xochimilco by taking the tren lijero to the Embarcadero Station. Other sights in the area include the Xochimilco flower market and the Parque Ecológico de Xochimilco which hosts a museum dedicated to the history (both natural and cultural) of the area.

Xochimilco is worth visiting if you are spending more than a few days in Mexico City. (If you are just in town for the weekend, the location, which takes a while to get to, makes it less attractive than other more central sights.) Although I enjoyed the energy that came from visiting the canals with a large and festive group, my sense is that a day at Xochimilco can just as easily be slow and romantic, perfect, say, for two couples on a double date. So relax, macha, rent a boat, get a little drunk, enjoy the music, and enjoy the ride.