Miniature Shoes at the Museo del Calzado
More than two years past between when I first read about the Museo del Calzado in the Moon Guide to Mexico City‘s section on “Surreal Mexico City” and the day I finally set foot inside this delightful museum dedicated to shoes. The museum, which is run by Centro Historico shoe emporium El Borceguí–an institution unto itself–was closed for renovation the first several times I tried to visit. It was well worth the wait, however, and with free admission, it was a wonderful way to pass several hours in the Zócalo.
Granted, I’m biased towards spending an afternoon gazing a footwear. I have incredibly large and wide feet that render most women’s shoes too small or too delicately contoured for my feet, a situation which has perhaps led me to fetishize all those beautiful shoes I will never be able to wear. Whatever the cause, I’m a bit of a shoe nut, and El Borceguí’s Museo del Calzado was full of eye-candy for those of us who appreciate a fine pair of treads, but don’t feel the need to partake in Carrie Bradshaw-inspired, bankruptcy-inducing shoe-shopping binges.
The museum is housed in one large and well-lit room on the second floor above El Borceguí’s retail space. The main collection of shoes are displayed on the floor in cases organized chronologically, spanning several continents and several millenia. There are sandals from ancient Egypt and wooden shoes from Holland. One of the more interesting cases focuses on Chinese foot-binding and displays many examples of the small slippers used to showcase bound feet.
As would be expected, the nineteenth and twentieth centuries provide a considerable portion of the exhibit, including a dozen varieties of sexy Victorian boots, several obscene platforms, and many delicious leather pumps.
In addition to the main exhibit, there is also a second story terrace that runs along the perimeter of the room. This level of cases features a display of miniature shoes made of porcelain and other materials. My favorite part of the second floor was the collection of shoes worn by famous people. Highlights include space boots donated by NASA and running shoes worn by Mexican Olympic athlete and suspected-lesbian Ana Gabriela Guevara.
I highly recommend the Museo del Calzado for shoe-fetishists and anyone else who likes to gaze appreciatively at some fine footwear. Because the admission is free there is no pressure to take in the entire collection (which can be a little daunting) in one visit. Come back whenever you need a quiet escape from the bustle of the Centro Historico.
Museo del Calzado; Bolivar 27 (between Madero and 16 de Septiembre), Second Floor, Centro Historico; (55) 5512 1311 ext. 35; Hours: 10-6 Monday-Saturday