Coyoacán is known for its many coffee shops and the hippie intellectualism that supposedly lurks there. Indeed, if there is a place in Mexico City where you are most likely to see a young person hunched over a battered copy of Las Venas Abiertas de America Latina or arguing with a group of dreadlocked friends about whether the PRD can ever truly be a radical party, it is probably in one of the dozens of coffee shops within a few blocks from the Plaza Hidalgo.

One of the most popular coffee venues is El Jarocho, which has several locations clustered in the center of Coyoacán. Although it’s hardly an undiscoverd gem, El Jarocho has become a favorite of mine, not so much for the coffee they serve (which is quite good), but for their frozen chocolate. This treat, which comes served in a styrofoam cup, captures the essence of chocolate caliente, complete with tiny flecks of cinnamon floating around, but in a form that is a cross between a milkshake and a cup of nieve.

Their coffee is strong and good; it has a bit of a following. Although there is no indoor seating at their location on the corner of Allende and Cuauhtémoc, it’s not uncommon to see lines stretching down the block, waiting to order at the counter. Other locations are a bit more relaxed, with benches and plastic chairs partially blocking the foot traffic on less-busy streets.

I have taken to heading to El Jarocho after having tortas at La Barraca Valenciana; there is a location right next door, on Avenida Mexico between Malintzin and Xicotencatl. I always go for the chocolate frío, but there are other frozen drinks, a surprisingly large selection of caffeinated and decaffeinated teas, as well as rich-smelling cups of Veracruz-style espresso drinks. The pan dulce is nothing to write home about, but as a vehicle for the coffee, you could do a lot worse. They also sell coffee to brew at home.

El Jarocho; www.cafeeljarocho.com.mx/; locations throughout Coyoacán

The other event is the IV Festival Cultural de Diversidad Sexual which will take place in different venues all over the city of Zacatecas. Literature, art, movies, and even a puppet show are included in the program. Most of the activities are in the evenings which is great if you are planning to walk around Zacatecas in the morning.

Macha Mexico will certainly be there, although we’re still a little bit conflicted about whether going to one or the other conference. We’ll probably split between the sexual diversity activism, and the desire of knowing more, and therefore, taking some action regarding the global food crisis. Whatever happens, Zacatecas is a great city and this is a great opportunity to enjoy it. We’ll keep you posted about our findings in this Mexican northern city where, as far as I can recall, the food is great and the streets are full of visual pleasures.

The Global Food Crsis Conference, 13-15 august 2009, Ave. Preparatoria s/n, Col. Hidraulica, Zacatecas,, phone (492) 899 6945. Free entrance.

IV Festival Cultural de la Diversidad Sexual Zacatecas 2009, 11-22 August 2009, various venues.

]]> http://www.machamexico.com/2009/08/11/two-conferences-at-zacatecas/feed/ 0 http://www.machamexico.com/2009/08/04/lesbian-sushi/ http://www.machamexico.com/2009/08/04/lesbian-sushi/#comments Tue, 04 Aug 2009 19:16:46 +0000 Anna http://machamexico.wordpress.com/?p=146

No joke. Ladies get 40% off everything on the menu twice a week.

Almost three years ago, on my second night in Mexico City, I was invited by a fabulous group of machas to attend one of their birthday parties at “Lesbian Sushi.” I had some reservations about the name of this event, recalling an exceedingly awkward “queer sushi” event I attended at Barnard College, at which uncomfortable first-year GLBT students tried to roll their own vegetarian maki and flirt with each other. (We were equally unsuccessful at both.)

But here I had no reason to cringe; lesbian sushi was no formal event. Rather, the “ladies’ night” discount at a sushi restaurant in the Condesa, which kicks 40% off the bill for women on Mondays and Thursdays (that’s right, 40% off the bill) had attracted dykes looking for discounts, as ladies’ nights often do. What better place to invite friends for dinner than a restaurant where you only have to pay slightly more than half off the bill?

Two years later, “lesbian sushi” at the Musuko sushi restaurant is still going strong, though, to be fair, you are just as likely to see groups of Sex and the City-inspired straight girlfriends or fresa mother/daughter pairs gossiping over their tempura as you are to see machas. Still, this is a great place to plan a first date or a dinner outing for a group of queer gals.

tempura mixto

For those that have never had sushi in Mexico, it is a very different experience than eating sushi in the United States (which, I suspect, is also very different than eating sushi in Japan). Be warned, almost all of the maki rolls on the menu at Musuko list cream cheese (queso) as one of the ingredients. Although at first I was fairly adamant about ordering my rolls sin queso–I just couldn’t seem to get over the idea that cream cheese should be eaten with a bagel, plus, it makes each roll a considerably heavier dish–I’ve since warmed up to it, at least on certain rolls.

My favorites on the menu now tend to be the rollos that are least like what I would find on menus in the United States. For example, the Inari roll comes breaded and friend, tempura style, the cream cheese deliciously melted along with the fish. (I never thought I’d admit to liking that particular combination.) The Taigarai roll is both delicious and visually interesting, with each piece topped with a dollop of spicy crab salad and a miniature slice of lime. For a bit of tropical fusion, the Plátano Rollo comes with friend banana slices wrapped around the inside and kampyo (Japanase pickle) on the inside. For more traditional fare, I enjoy the Futomaki A, which is one of the few rollos that are offered without cream cheese. All the rollos range between 60 and 90 pesos, but that’s before the discount!

a macha enjoying her postre

Other items worth noting include the savory sopa de hongos (mushroom soup), the tempura mixto (95 pesos), which is large and good for sharing, and the kushiage salmón (25 pesos), a sort of deconstructed and deep fried bagel-free cream cheese and lox combination. I’ve never actually tried this, but I know several machas who swear by it. The large menu also offers a range of appetizers, ramen noodle soups, as well as rich, french-style desserts.

Be warned, service can be a little slow, especially on Thursdays when the place tends to be more crowded. Although Musuko is a chain, the location in the Condesa is the only one that offers this particular discounts to women on Mondays and Thursdays. (The same discount is offered to men on Fridays.) As a great seeker of discounts, I can’t stress how nice it is to receive the check after lesbian sushi, since it shows your original total, the amount you saved, and your new, reduced bill.

Musuko (El hijo del sol naciente); Nuevo León 160, on the corner of Campeche, Colonia Condesa; Tel. 5553-1443; Open Mon-Sat from 1pm until 11:30, Sun until 11

Tamal de frijol and atole of almonds and sunflower seeds

Let’s be honest: it’s difficult for vegetarians to be adventurous when it’s about exploring food of a new country. There will always be some restrictions to what we allow ourselves to try, or which of our own rules we are willing to break. Mexico is not the exception. Unfortunately, some of the dishes that have gained prestige for the Mexican cuisine are made with pork or beef—such as delicious cochinita pibil, tacos al pastor, or chiles rellenos which are filled with meat among other ingredients. Some food street vendors sell quesadillas filled with mushrooms, flor de calabaza (squash blossoms) or cheese only. However, most of the tacos on the street have all sorts of meat.

And yet, there are some paradises for those who want to have Mexican food and avoid meat. The first is Papalotl, already mentioned here before, and Gold Taco, a little restaurant that opened some years ago in the cozy Colonia Narvarte. Far from being a luxurious place, the Gold Taco is a little fonda with a few tables, and a couple of waitresses that walk quickly between the small space between one table and other. In contrast with the size of the place, the menu has a great variety of food. The Gold Taco is part of a trend in Mexican vegetarian cuisine that makes a “veggie” version of Mexican dishes with gluten. That means you can order tacos al pastor, chiles rellenos or any other food with exaclty the same ingredients of the original, except for the meat.  There are also,  salads for those who love greens, and traditional Mexican breakfasts for those who like a heavy meal to start the day.

The best choices, based on what Machas say, are the enfrijoladas, filled not with chicken but with panela cheese, topped with cream. Also, they recommend pozole, made with mushrooms instead of pork. And the best ever: their delicious tamales. There is a long list of tamal flavors, but you have to try the ones made with bean wrapped with hoja santa–an herb that leaves an aftertaste that combined with black beans and corn is hard to forget. For dessert, you can have an apple tamal, which has a soft flavor and texture.

If you are not lactose intolerant, lassi is a very good choice here. They use a different fresh fruit everyday and cardamom to make it. It can mild away the spiciness, if it’s the case. Other options are aguas frescas of different flavors, or a freshly squeezed orange juice.

The patrons here are an array of white-collar workers, Machas, and maybe some yoggis that hang out here after going to the yoga school that is a couple of blocks away of the restaurant.

Gold Taco, Av. Eugenia 1562 between Tajín and Petén, Col. Narvarte, Eugenia metro station. From Monday to Friday, from 10 am to 8 pm; Weekends from 11:30 am to 6 pm.

I’ve been visiting this cozy restaurant since it opened, partly because it is half a block away from where I live, and partly because I love Lebanese food which I think is hard to find in Mexico City.

Zatar

Even though Colonia Narvarte and the next neighborhood, Colonia Alamos, have a Lebanese population, good Lebanese restaurants are hard to find. They are rather expensive and the food is not as fresh as one would expect. El Camellito is not the cheapest place on earth but I’m always glad to pay around 6 dollars for really well made food and intense flavors. Over half a year, this little restaurant has grown from offering classic plates such as tabouleh, babaganoush, pitas, and delicious desserts made with dates, walnuts and pecans, to serve more elaborated plates. Fatayer (a kind of empanada), hamburgers, and a traditional plate which is different every day are now in the menu.

Two things are astounding: what they call Arab Pizza or zatar whose basic ingredients are pita and cheese to which you can add olives, tomato, mushrooms or meat. It is cooked in a brick-made oven that enhances all the flavors.

The falafel also deserves a special mention since this is the only place I’ve found in Mexico where tahini is home made. I mean, it’s real sesame paste and not mayonnaise mixed with weird flavors trying to imitate tahini as I’ve experience in some other restaurants.

Falafel at El Camellito

El Camellito is run by a family quite concerned about both the freshness and the quality of the food they serve. Depending on what you order, the service could be a little bit slow, but it’s worth it. Other suprises can be found in the menu. American Express card is welcomed and if you have a friend in the neighborhood you can order food to go.

El Camellito, Zempoala 148 on the corner of Avenida Universidad; phone: 5519-1381. Close to Etiopia metro station and Centro SCOP metrobús station. Monday to Saturday from 12am to 10pm, Sunday from 12am to 8pm

It is in this spirit that I mention the Maison Française de Thé, a semi-subterranean tea-lounge located in the heart of the Colonia Roma. Although there is nothing explicitly lesbian about this establishment, to me, the decor, which features low settees and various exotic/”primative” accents, has a certain 1920′s Rive Gauche feel that allows you to pretend that you and your macha friends are having a Natalie Barney-inspired salon.

Tea snobs afficionados can buy fancy tea in bulk in the front of the store, or you can order a pot of one of the dozens of blends they have available. I swear that they used to offer a blend called the “Colette” (which I once unabashedled ordered by requesting a pot of “this lesbian tea” while pointing to my selection). It tasted exactly like the special tea from Paris that my grandmother serves to important guests. However, the last time I went I found no Colette on the menu. The closest semblance was a tea called “Paris Cheri,” and I recommend at least sniffing it if not ordering an entire pot to sip while you recline on a cushion and read some Djuna Barnes.

someone get this macha a cup of tea

Each pot contains about three generous tea-cups (and is priced accordingly) and is ideal for sharing between two people or enjoying slowly by yourself over the course of an hour. In addition to tea, they serve delicate finger foods and sweets.

If you enjoy looking at the shoes, calves, and fashionable skirts and pants of Colonia Roma hipsters, then the people-watching is ideal from the low windows of the Maison de Thé. Otherwise, I recommend this place for dedicated tea enthusiasts and anyone who wants to live their French lesbian salon fantasy while in Mexico City.

Maison Française de Thé: Caravanseraï; address: Orizaba 101-A, on the corner of Alvaro Obregon, Colonia Roma; phone: 5511-2877; e-mail: caravanseraimexico@yahoo.fr

In any case, some lesbian friends of mine accidentally introduced me to a great little café in Coyoacán that caters to those with specialized food needs. Formerly known as Basanti, Café-Patisserie “Ruta de la Seda” (“silk route”) opened in the spring of 2008 and claims to offer “organic flavors of the world.” While that might be a bit of a stretch (since only two or three continents were represented–one in the form of a plate of house-made samosas and accompanying mango lassi), I was impressed by what I saw on the menu and the few items we sampled while seated under the shade of large umbrellas in front of the cafe.

All of their baked goods are made from trigo integral (unbleached, whole grain flour) and many options are dairy free. In addition to containing no artificial flavors, colors, preservatives, or genetically modified ingredients, no animal fats are used in their doughs (only pure canola oil). All of their postres (38-40 pesos) are baked on the premises: the smell of fresh-baked almond cookies wafted out of the kitchen to where we were sitting outside, tempting our small group to order more than we already had.

Although not all of their products are organic (coffee being a major exception), all of their juices, fruits, vegetables, dairy-products, breads, and tortillas are certified as such.

There were an assortment of sandwiches and teas on the menu, but we stuck to coffee and dessert. They offer the standard upscale coffee choices, as well as some I had never seen, such as the delicious cubana style coffee, an espresso flavored delicately with caramelized sugar. All drinks could be made with soy milk, which is not something I have seen very often in Mexico City.

The menu warned us that not everything listed was always available, due to the seasonal nature of many of their ingredients, but I was still disappointed when the waitress told me that they weren’t offering the tarte tatin I had my eye on. She pointed out several alternatives, included one not on the menu, a dense and bittersweet chocolate cake (perhaps flourless…), served with dollops of blueberry puree and fresh blueberries on top.

I’m no connoisseur of pastries, but I must say, I was impressed by this cake. The generous slice was simple and rich, dense without being too dry. If the (no added sugar) blueberry puree was underwhelming, it was only in comparison to the intense flavor of the chocolate. Devouring it was a group effort.

What I liked most about this small café was that it had a refined, French atmosphere about it, despite its very Berkeley, hippie heart. The quality of the food and coffee we ordered was so high that I didn’t mind the peace-frog soap dish in the bathroom. Even with the organics, the prices were lower than many of the more touristy cafés in the center of Coyoacán. I suspect that some items on the menu are better than others, but it will be a pleasure to go back and sample more.

Ruta de la Seda is not a specifically lesbian establishment, but the waitress was pleased to tell us that they “don’t discriminate against anyone,” and I strongly recommend it to anyone looking for places off the beaten track in Coyoacán.

Café-Patisserie: Ruta de la Seda; located at the corner of Aurora and Pino in the Santa Catarina section of Coyoacán

But if you are someone who seeks a specific destination in your escape from the (often oppressive) bustle of Plaza Hidalgo and the Jardín Centenario, I recommend heading south down Calle Higuera for several blocks until you reach La Conchita, a small park centered around La Capilla de la Conchita, a tiny eighteenth century baroque chapel with moorish-inspired details.

balloon seller in La Conchita

The park itself is peaceful and has many benches, good for public necking, but there are some historical sights that make La Conchita worth strolling through. In addition to the Capilla de la Conchita, this plaza is home to the Casa Colorada, historic home of La Malinche (a.k.a. Malintzin to the Aztecs, and Doña Marina to the Spaniards), the mistress/native informant/baby mama of Cortés, symbolic mother of the mestizo, and fascinating historical and cultural figure. Hers is the red house on the corner of Higuera and Vallarta, but it is no longer open to the public.

If you stroll down to La Conchita to escape the bustle of Plaza Hidalgo and the Jardín Centenario (which, at this date, are undergoing major construction, threatening the livelihood of many vendors who usually set up shop there) and are looking for a place to grab a coffee, the Plaza Café, on the northern edge of the park, is not a bad choice.

In addition to hot and cold coffee drinks (between 14 and 30 pesos), you can also buy coffee grounds and beans here. Although I have never done so, the quality of the drinks I’ve ordered in house suggests that this might not be a bad place to come for a bag of freshly ground. Items which caught my eye on the menu (but which I have yet to sample) were the strudel and bisquets served with homemade fruit preserves. There are also many flavors of ice-cream and sorbet. For more savory options, under the section of the menu labeled “Para Matar el Hambre” (“Kill Your Hunger”) there are also empanadas and sandwiches served on bagels from 28 to 43 pesos.

The atmosphere of this cafe is open and relaxed; the music is not obnoxiously loud. It seems to draw a younger crowd (who linger near the front, perhaps just to hang out with the wait staff) as well as people in their thirties and forties enjoying a quiet place to have a coffee. I met an awesome transgender dyke there once, suggesting a pretty queer-friendly vibe among the staff, although not an explicitly lesbian or transgender establishment. The Plaza Café is a perfect place to seek refuge if you are caught in a summer rain while meandering in La Conchita.

Plaza Café; at the corner of Vallarta and Higuera on the northern edge of La Conchita

One of the things I love about the Centro Historico is the way the combination of the architecture, the fonts on the signs, and the styles in the storefronts allows you to time travel through decades, even centuries of Mexican history. Simply walking down Cinco de Mayo, from the majestic Palacio de Bellas Artes, past the 16th century decadence of the Casa de los Azulejos and the stylish lines of art deco buildings, all the way down to the Catedral Metropolitana, gives any visitor a sense of the way different eras seem to overlap and bleed into each other in this part of town.

My favorite place to stop for nourishment along Cinco de Mayo is La Pagoda. Formerly called “Cafe Popular,” La Pagoda has all the charm and attitude of a well-run roadside diner. The front part of the restaurant has row of booths for two or four, opposite a long counter. The counter is often full of single gentlemen stopping in for some comida corrida or a piece of pan dulce and some coffee, depending on the time of day. The back room is sunnier and has more booths and tables. The decor is an interesting blend of 1950′s and 1970′s hues and furniture, with small televisions propped in the corners of the ceiling, displaying an ever-rotating slide show of featured menu items.

The service is snappy and provided by sassy waitresses (of all ages) dressed in matching pink uniforms, complete with hair piece. Perhaps the reason the service is so good is that patrons are handed an evaluation card with the check. I’ve never had a reason to fill it out negatively, and usually have something positive to say about the service.

In my experiences, waitresses have never so much as raised an eyebrow upon seeing a large group of machas or an affectionate lesbian couple tucked in a booth. Additionally, I have seen transgender women dining here, without incident.

The menu offers a wide variety of styles of food, from sandwiches served on bagels, to soups (including ass decent sopa azteca), to egg dishes, to salads, to more standard Mexican fare. My favorite item on the menu is the chilaquiles verdes, with chicken, with an egg, or plain; all are delicious and filling. The portions are large and served with a generous amount of cheese. La Pagoda also offers well priced comida corrida during the day (around forty pesos). Nothing on the menu is over 100 pesos, and most items are under 50.

Aside from its savory fare, La Pagoda is well known for its pan dulce and delicious cafe con leche. For those that have never ordered cafe con leche in Mexico, the ritual of the experience is part of what makes it delicious. Dark, hot Espresso is poured first into a glass (you say how much), then topped off a minute later with hot, slightly sweet milk. The glass vessel allows you to witness the color of the beverage get lighter and lighter as the milk reaches the top of the glass. I will admit to not being a very sophisticated coffee drinker, but I love ordering this, and have done so at both 9:30 in the morning and 11:30 at night.

La Pagoda is open twenty-four hours a day, and is a wonderful place to stop for a reasonably priced and delicious meal or snack both during the day between sights in the Centro Historico and late at night in an attempt to prevent a hangover the next morning.

La Pagoda, address: Cinco de Mayo 52, Centro Historico, corner of Filomena

The restaurant is decorated with colorful butterflies of all kinds that hang from the ceiling and walls all over the place (“Papalotl” means butterfly in nahuatl); it is well illuminated, plants can be seen everywhere and if you are looking for an open-air area you can pick a table at the little garden in the back or maybe, sit in front of the little fountain.

Variety here is the word. Whether you are vegetarian or not, and if you are used to comidas corridas, you have three choices depending on the weekday. Meat is always on the menu, but on Tuesdays and Thursdays fish is one of the big attractions. You They also serve combos that include a sandwich or baguette, salad, aguas frescas and delicious coffee. They offer a large variety of dressings that includes honey mustard (my favorite) or yoghurt. Items on the menu are from 50 to 70 pesos, but always well served.

If you come by yourself, the music is nice and magazines like Proceso or La Jornada can be found at the entrance. Regulars come from CU, including machas from Philosophy and Literature Department, which is considered the most macha spot–at least in our circle of friends. Highly recommendable.

Cafe Papalotl. Comercio y Administración, 40, Col. Copilco Universidad. Opens 8 am to 8 pm. You can reach the place by walking from Facultad de Economía as if you were going to the subway.